The crappie pole was interesting. Still, there may be an easier way. This past Saturday I improved my radial system around the palm tree. I buried 6 14 foot radials just under the sod. I then took an eighteen foot long piece of wire with a fishing weight on the end and threw it over the palm tree.
Ok, not the fanciest. But, by gosh, I was 59 in to Michigan. Completed my first CW QSO in a long, long time. Boy was I rusty on the 'ole Benchers. My Keyer is a design from "Fundamentals of Amateur Radio, circa 1970s. It is made up of two 741 op-amps. It is far from perfect and has a few quirks which can make it tricky to use. I think I sent di-di-di-di-di-di-di-dit (error) more times than I would like to count! Still I survived.
With the antenna 40 feet from the house I can hear! The thing does tune up on 30, 15 and 10. But I doubt the efficiency is high. Still need a good way to get on 40. I am thinking of a loading coil and another wire tossed over the palm. It's a shame the palm is only about 18 feet high (to the top of the leaves, the trunk is a bit lower still.)
Someday I still wnat to try a lop lying on the roof. . . we shall see. For now I am QRV!
Follow the adventures as a Ham battles the evil HOA and avoids violating the awful and dreaded CC&Rs in a modern South Carolina neighborhood. All without offending his beautiful XYL's aesthetic sensibilities all this and raising a young daughter and toddler son!
N4DDP and Shack
N4DDP in native habitat
Monday, March 28, 2011
Monday, March 7, 2011
A Crappie pole may be the answer after all
I actually had some time Saturday to play with the antennas. Moving my random wire to the chimney did not help the noise problem enough to make it worth while. So I took the 100 feet of Beldon 9918 I have had laying around for . . . many years, I think about 17!, ran it along one of the fence stringers to the farthest corner of the Baby/Dog enclosure (about 50 feet form the house.) I used a 12' crappie pole with 24' of wire and a 12' radial, I tossed the "extra" wire over a nearby palm tree. AMAZING! I can actually hear stations on 40M (S5-S6 noise levels.) I can also hear on 20, 15 and 10! I think I am on to something. Another beautiful thing is that it is invisible from the street. In addition, during long terms of not using it, I can lay it on the top fence stringer so it is really invisible. This may be better than a flagpole.
I am ordering a 20' rod from amazon and the new plan is to use 3 parallel wires for a 40,20,15 and 10 meter vertical, sort of leaning up against the palm tree (which also places it outside the baby enclosure.) I may be on the air yet! (almost 2 years from the start!) Maybe play with 30M too.
I'll post some pictures when I get it set up for real.
I am ordering a 20' rod from amazon and the new plan is to use 3 parallel wires for a 40,20,15 and 10 meter vertical, sort of leaning up against the palm tree (which also places it outside the baby enclosure.) I may be on the air yet! (almost 2 years from the start!) Maybe play with 30M too.
I'll post some pictures when I get it set up for real.
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
Boy has it been a while!
You ever see and interesting blog, that never comes to fruition? That would be this one. I have been soooo busy, this is the last thing I have had time for. Plus, I have had no time for Ham radio since last July! I am still working on the antenna problem. My mag loop (my daughter calls it: my contraption) needs a better mounting and a little more capacitor for 40M. The adapted electric screwdriver works well. I will have to confirm that it is difficult to get more than an octave (2:1 freq. ratio) because of the Min/Max Cap ratio. So, I will probably build two loops. Another possibility is build a small receive only loop and put it outside, well away from the EMI of my home and use it so I can hear stations (my main problem right now with the Attic/Siding random wire.) Even before all that, when I get an hour or two, I am going to move my wire to up along the chimney and out to a vent pipe and see how that works.
My Bitx is still in the container I use for projects under construction, as are all my other projects.
My Bitx is still in the container I use for projects under construction, as are all my other projects.
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Busy days of Summer
Its been a while (how many blogs do you see that on?) Let's see . . . I built a fence to keep the little one out of the pond. It my work out as a great camouflage for a better antenna. I am thinking of a sloper from a corner of the fence to the chimney or vent pipe on the roof. A few radials and viola -- I'm on 40 again! I also built a Rockmite 40 for travel. I would like to also finish an amplifier and a tuner, also a portable set of paddles. I am looking forward to being able to operate when I have some down time (on vacation or such.)
Oh yeah, the smt Bitx is still waiting for me fo finsh the rx filter and PA. Just seems hard to get to it all right now.
Oh yeah, the smt Bitx is still waiting for me fo finsh the rx filter and PA. Just seems hard to get to it all right now.
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Some of us Take a bit longer . . .
Ok, So I am building an oscillator for my SMD BitXxx(20.) A long time ago my dad taught me how to read the codes on capacitors – 1st significant digit, 2nd significant 3rd is the multiplier.
So … why is it so hard to get the #$#$@ thing down to 4 Mhz? When I started I had a 19Mhz VFO (vice 4!) Let's think about this -- a cap marked 104 is 1 and 4 zeros pico-farads (10,000 pF or .01 uF) a 103 is .001 or 1000 pf. Now what is 330? I thought my dad had taught that (my fault, not his) it should be 330pf (cause zero makes no sense as a power of ten!) At the age I learned it, I thought that 10 to the 0 was absurd. It was not until later that I learned that it was equal to 1. So if the caps I was using were 330 pF they would have been marked “331.” It was when I was trying to figure out what a 681 cap would be if 680 were 680 pico-farads . . . that the light finally came on and I realized the error of my thinking. Wow, it only took 40 years to straighten that one out! Think how fast it could have happened if I had had a capacitance meter!
So now it makes sense that my Oscillator is going at 18 Mhz instead of 1.8
My shack building continues on. I finally created a hole in my exterior wall so I could feed cables out in another way besides through the open window (not popular around here and it does look a bit tacky.) So I finally got to tear into Vinyl siding and put in an external outlet box (J-Box.) It came out pretty nice. I will have to put some photos up.
I also figured out that my screening is Al . . . not fiberglass. I was trying to figure out why my mag-loop was so badly de-tuned when sitting on the screen porch near the edge. I still have yet to make a contact on that antenna as my stupid microphone quit working on the Yaesu (another long story!) and my confidence in my CW skills are still pretty low.
Someday, I will actually be able to talk on Ham radio!
So … why is it so hard to get the #$#$@ thing down to 4 Mhz? When I started I had a 19Mhz VFO (vice 4!) Let's think about this -- a cap marked 104 is 1 and 4 zeros pico-farads (10,000 pF or .01 uF) a 103 is .001 or 1000 pf. Now what is 330? I thought my dad had taught that (my fault, not his) it should be 330pf (cause zero makes no sense as a power of ten!) At the age I learned it, I thought that 10 to the 0 was absurd. It was not until later that I learned that it was equal to 1. So if the caps I was using were 330 pF they would have been marked “331.” It was when I was trying to figure out what a 681 cap would be if 680 were 680 pico-farads . . . that the light finally came on and I realized the error of my thinking. Wow, it only took 40 years to straighten that one out! Think how fast it could have happened if I had had a capacitance meter!
So now it makes sense that my Oscillator is going at 18 Mhz instead of 1.8
My shack building continues on. I finally created a hole in my exterior wall so I could feed cables out in another way besides through the open window (not popular around here and it does look a bit tacky.) So I finally got to tear into Vinyl siding and put in an external outlet box (J-Box.) It came out pretty nice. I will have to put some photos up.
I also figured out that my screening is Al . . . not fiberglass. I was trying to figure out why my mag-loop was so badly de-tuned when sitting on the screen porch near the edge. I still have yet to make a contact on that antenna as my stupid microphone quit working on the Yaesu (another long story!) and my confidence in my CW skills are still pretty low.
Someday, I will actually be able to talk on Ham radio!
Monday, April 12, 2010
Low Voltage at High Current
So , in addition to my great need for an antenna that works, I am also trying to cleanly wire up the 13.6 to the equipment in my shack. Along with many others I turned to Anderson Power-pole connectors. Having struggled with trying to power it all up and keep it neat for may years, I have to say that I think this is going to work out!
Imagine: one connector for every piece of equipment that uses "12" volts!
Not only is it one connector, the parts of the connector are the same! No "Male" or "Female" to keep straight, no need for different housings for different size contacts, what a great idea.
However, in making up the "pigtails" to connect my Heathkit, which has this octal 13 pin connector on it. the cable has four 14 gauge black and four 14 gauge red wires. Unfortunately I couldn't cram all the wires into the powerpole contact. So I made a very messy splice (actually, I made two ugly splices) to a short length(s) of 10 gauge wire. . . very ugly and is going to require some re-think and rework.
The amazing part of it all is that now all my radios and power supplies will use the same connector for power, eventually I will. It is so obvious, why didn't I do something like this before? I am about to wire my Ham Radio insert for 12v powerpoles. This way the wiring, at least for power, can be neat and under control. The coax may never be so easy to manage, but the power distribution will be a work of art.
I did manage to do some listening this past weekend. I think the weather was way too nice to stay inside. So I didn't!
Imagine: one connector for every piece of equipment that uses "12" volts!
Not only is it one connector, the parts of the connector are the same! No "Male" or "Female" to keep straight, no need for different housings for different size contacts, what a great idea.
However, in making up the "pigtails" to connect my Heathkit, which has this octal 13 pin connector on it. the cable has four 14 gauge black and four 14 gauge red wires. Unfortunately I couldn't cram all the wires into the powerpole contact. So I made a very messy splice (actually, I made two ugly splices) to a short length(s) of 10 gauge wire. . . very ugly and is going to require some re-think and rework.
The amazing part of it all is that now all my radios and power supplies will use the same connector for power, eventually I will. It is so obvious, why didn't I do something like this before? I am about to wire my Ham Radio insert for 12v powerpoles. This way the wiring, at least for power, can be neat and under control. The coax may never be so easy to manage, but the power distribution will be a work of art.
I did manage to do some listening this past weekend. I think the weather was way too nice to stay inside. So I didn't!
Friday, April 2, 2010
My Shack

So here is my current shack -- most of the equipment works, but not all is hooked up yet -- I am still working on antennas. The most clever part, I think, is the monitor swivel. In any shack I have ever set up, the most critical and precious space is what is directly in front and easily reachable for the operator. By making the computer monitor swing out, I maximize usable space and am still able to use the computer. With the monitor stowed, I can use the setup as a computer station. Also 2 meter FM is still very doable as there is not much tuning required. The shelf insert is also part of my main requirement to make it all reversible and invisible when I am not using it.
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